News in Frames | Kolhapuri chappals walk on chic runways

Recently, Kolhapuri chappals made global headlines when Italian luxury brand Prada released a pair of sandals that closely resembled the traditional Kolhapuri design — but priced them at several hundred dollars. This sparked a controversy, with many labelling it cultural appropriation and criticising the brand for the lack of acknowledgement of the artisans or the original craft. While Prada did not directly claim inspiration from Kolhapuris, the visual similarity was enough to reignite discussions around intellectual property rights, artisan recognition, and the importance of preserving traditional crafts.

Kolhapuri chappals are a symbol of India’s rich artisanal heritage, with a history dating back over 800 years. Originating from the town of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, these handcrafted leather sandals have been traditionally worn by Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj. Users admire the footwear for its durability, comfort, and distinct aesthetic.

What makes the footwear truly unique is the intricate craftsmanship that is behind each pair. These chappals are made entirely by hand — from cutting the leather to shaping the sole and weaving the iconic T-strap. Every stitch, punch, and braid is done manually by skilled artisans, many of whom work out of small family-run homes rather than large-scale factories. This decentralised, home-based production model has been passed down generations, keeping the cottage industry alive in small towns and villages across Maharashtra and Karnataka.

Another less-known but important aspect of Kolhapuri chappals is their eco-friendly production. The leather used undergoes vegetable tanning, a traditional method that uses natural tannins derived from tree bark, leaves, and other plant sources. The process, though longer and more labour-intensive, adds to the unique character of every chappal — no two pieces of leather are ever quite the same.

Ironically, the Prada controversy served as a silver lining — it brought renewed attention to Kolhapuri chappals on the global stage. Several Indian designers and advocates used the moment to highlight the centuries-old craft, emphasising the need to support local artisans.

In an era of fast fashion, Kolhapuri chappals stand as a proud symbol of slow, sustainable craftsmanship — made with care, by hand, and with history in every step.

Photo:
Emmanual Yogini

Hands at work: Artisans set out leather pieces of various sizes to make the chappals.

Photo:
Emmanual Yogini

First step: Pieces of vegetable-tanned leather is laid out to dry under the sun on a terrace on Kolhapur.

Photo:
Emmanual Yogini

Bootstrapping tradition: Leather ‘ears’ used to attach the T-strap are left to dry at a workshop.

Photo:
Emmanual Yogini

Crafting each step: Tools used to make Kolhapuri chappals are kept in precise order for the convenience of the artisans.

Photo:
Emmanual Yogini

Shaping the sole: Absorbed in his work, a craftsman cuts the right shape for a chappal.

Photo:
Emmanual Yogini

On the anvil: The Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted in modest workshops.

Photo:
Emmanual Yogini

A stitch in time: At her home workshop, an artisan stitches the sole of the chappal.

Photo:
Emmanual Yogini

Finishing touches: Inside Kolhapur’s Chappal market, an artisan polishes a pair of Kolhapuris, giving the handmade leather its sheen.

Photo:
Emmanual Yogini

Royal replicas: Shubam Satpute, owner of Igna Leathers, showcases a pair of royal Kolhapuris, replicas of the footwear once worn by King Shahu Maharaj, who is considered a visionary ruler.

Photo:
Emmanual Yogini

Timeless display: Kolhapuri chappals on display at Rashtriya Leather Works, one of the oldest shops in the market. The cottage industry has received a boost with the global attention after fashion brand Prada praised the craftsmanship behind the traditional footwear.